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Hut above the rest
Bellinda Kontominas finds an impromptu break is the perfect way to relax. Fans of the weekend away fall into one of two camps. There are those who prepare meticulously by booking the accommodation months in advance, making sure the car is stocked with snacks for the journey and remembering to hire a babysitter for the kids. And there are those who do little more than pack a toothbrush and a change of undies. My companion and I fall firmly into the latter camp. Our weekend away is tacked onto the back of (you guessed it) an unplanned midweek holiday to the North Coast. It is Friday afternoon and as we drive back to Sydney on the F3 with what feels like every car from the North Coast, a brown sign featuring white grapes flashes past. It is a sign in every sense of the word. "Let's go to the Hunter Valley for the weekend," I suggest. We drive along narrow roads, past surprisingly green paddocks and through quaint towns with weatherboard cottages and pubs that are all called the Royal Hotel. Once in the Hunter Valley, we stop at the first place that takes our fancy and are told our chances of finding accommodation this weekend are hopeless. An international rock star is playing a sold-out concert at one of the vineyards and most of the crowd is staying overnight in the region. Our spur-of-the-moment holiday is fast becoming a nightmare. We are about to concede defeat and continue our drive to Sydney when the receptionist calls the local tourism information centre and discovers that Elfin Hill, the first bed and breakfast to be built in Pokolbin, 34 years ago, has a room for the night. Elfin Hill is high on a ridge above Robyn Drayton Wines, the vineyard where an explosion in January claimed the lives of well-known winemaker Trevor Drayton and one of his workers. The property is in one of the Hunter Valley's highest positions, at the base of the Brokenback Mountain Range, and surrounded by beautifully kept native gardens, an in-ground pool and barbecue area that overlook the surrounding wineries. We are greeted by owners Mark and Marie Blackmore, who show us to our accommodation, marked not by a room number but by the word "Traminer". Other rooms in the long, log-cabin-style building have names including Semillon and Riesling. Our room has an exposed log wall on one side, timber floors, a queen bed and a contemporary yet rustic feel. But for now, we are more interested in whetting our appetite for good food and wine. Elfin Hill sells local produce such as honey, oil and chutneys but we drive into Pokolbin to the Smelly Cheese Shop, which provides all we need in sliced prosciutto, salami and ham, olive and eggplant dips, crackers, bread and soft cheeses. We also pick up several bottles of red wine for a night of indulgence. By the time we get back to Elfin Hill the dappled sunlight through the trees is so enticing we decide to sit outside and watch the sunset. Marie is on hand immediately with a knife and cutting board, candles, insect repellent and whatever else we need. About a year ago, the Blackmores extended their little piece of paradise by building a large common room with polished concrete floors, an industrial kitchen and a living area with gas fireplace. The building opens to a wide veranda with several table settings and views over a deep gully. It is the perfect spot for our impromptu picnic. As hosts, the Blackmores provide the perfect balance of privacy and attentiveness. Marie tells us how they first fell in love with Elfin Hill while organising accommodation for Mark's father, eight years ago. They complimented the then-owner on the spectacular views and peaceful setting, and were told to make an offer. Mark designed and built the common room as well as a state-of-the-art, loft-style studio, which is separate from all other accommodation and has by far the best views at Elfin Hill. He tells us some guests who have stayed in the studio have had curious kangaroos come up to the back door. We retire to bed long after the sun has set and the last of the wine and nibbles have been devoured. The next morning we wake to delightful bird sounds. Marie is already cooking up a storm in the industrial kitchen. We opt for her specialty breakfast of eggs, bacon and sausages with grilled mushrooms and tomatoes on a tray with tea, coffee and juice. After last night's feast I am surprised to finish everything on my plate but Marie's efforts are too good to go to waste. We leave completely relaxed, well-fed and ready for a day of wine tasting and whatever else takes our fancy. Weekends Away are reviewed anonymously and paid for by Traveller. View the article online at http://www.smh.com.au/travel/accommodation-reviews/hut-above-the-rest-20081113-61rf.html |
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